The Amora Blog...the Amora Gem Chapter

At the risk of sounding overly critical (NOT my intention), I wish you would make more videos that are not the studio ones. I find those pretty unhelpful as a consumer because you can make anything look good in a professional studio, and none of us are seeing our jewelry that way on a regular basis, if ever. My favorite video y'all ever produced was the one of the 5-6+ carat AGs taken by cell phone showing the fire. Maybe the concern is that such videos aren't professional enough but I think customers appreciate seeing some video asap after the long wait, plus we like a realistic view. My $.02, looking forward to seeing more!
SAME. Those studio pics/vids do basically nothing for the consumers. And since not many people have been posting pics yet I think it would be nice to see a "real life" pic/vid from the company. The ones walking around into different lighting situations are my favorite, it gives us a real sense of the stone.
 
Asked this elsewhere, but wondering when a 6.5mm restock is expected? Thanks!!
They said are focusing on 8mm and 9mm sizes for the next couple weeks as it has the highest amount of people wanting to buy those sizes. I imagine 8mm is the most popular size. Nice size, but not "too" big for those that don't want a gigantic rock on their finger.

6.5 will probably come after that.
 
SAME. Those studio pics/vids do basically nothing for the consumers. And since not many people have been posting pics yet I think it would be nice to see a "real life" pic/vid from the company. The ones walking around into different lighting situations are my favorite, it gives us a real sense of the stone.
Exactly this!!! I just posted essentially the same thing in another thread. That's definitely missing for me, since I want to know how it performs in different lighting situations.
 

talk-admin

Administrator
Staff member
Hi all!
Happy Friday! We've got one of our more exciting updates this month, so please get comfortable, grab a drink to sip on, and let's get underway!

BTD makes the Inc 5000! I'll lead off the blog with the really great news that BTD was inducted into the 2016 Inc 5000!
The Inc 5000 is the annual list of the fastest growing private companies in the US.
It's been maintained for over 35 years and previous members include Microsoft, Oracle, and Intuit among others.
BTD ranked #2949, so in the middle of the pack.
As a result, we get to use this nice award logo on our site among other things. Thanks very much for your support as that's what helped us accomplish this!

Award logo:


And copy of the letter:



BTD News:

Soaring Hearts Production Updates: I'm pleased to note that production has accelerated and we're setting a new weekly production record this week (at last!). This came about from the two biggest bottlenecks being resolved:

1 - Amora's incredible toughness has been destroying many of the initial tools. We've had massively re-inforced custom designed tools for TIGER in progress for over two months to address this and these arrived last Friday and have made a world of difference already.

2 - A random issue with the nano-metric polish that kept bottlenecking production has also been solved! This was done by developing a better theoretical understanding of what was happening to cause this, and then adjusting the process parameters to more perfectly match. The result - smooth and consistent results every time and huge time savings per run.

As a result, this week we've restocked 9mm (G-H color, VS1-Internally Flawless). These sold out but not before the email notifications were sent.
We also restocked 8mm today (also sold out), and now have 7.5mm in progress.

Next week we will also be running our first ever 6.5mm for the Soaring Hearts as well.

The plan for the next month is cycling from 6.5mm, 7.5mm, 8mm and 9mm over and over to ensure coverage of the highest demand sizes. I should note that waiting list emails are going out with each restock now, however, they are sent in chronological order from sign up and done proportionately the amount in stock (i.e. the entire list is not blasted when there are only a few stones available, rather a subset is emailed and if they do not sell out, another subset, etc. all in chronological order from sign up).

Soaring Hearts video! As I mentioned previously we were hoping to have some pro video and photo's shot once we had an IF and colorless Soaring Hearts. Ironically, we got our very first one today (D-IF!) but since I knew there would be rioting in the streets of the message boards if another 'all text' blog update arrived...I grabbed an H/IF Soaring Hearts and we shot both video and photos for you :)

Thus, let's get to the good stuff. Instead of just shooting the Soaring Hearts, by itself, we've upped the ante and shot it right next to a stunning 2.22ct AGS-000 H&A diamond so you can see directly how the Soaring Hearts compares to a top tier H&A diamond!

Here's the specs of each:

Left: Soaring Hearts Amora Gem 2.79ct, H/IF ($1615)
Right: H&A Diamond, 2.22ct, AGS-000 (AGS Triple Zero!), F/VS1 ($42,500)


For reference, the Amora is $1615 and the H&A Diamond is $42,500.

Soaring Hearts photos! Continuing the theme, we were able to also shoot some photos in varying lighting. General thoughts from the comparison:
1 - While the Amora is H color, on average it appears a bit whiter and brighter than the F color diamond. This is due to the higher light return of the Amora crystal combined with the new Soaring Hearts cut.
2 - The arrows in the Amora are also a bit more easily seen, due to the higher contrast created by the greater brilliance.
3 - The Amora has more fire overall with medium size color flashes, while the diamond produced fewer but a bit 'bolder' flashes vs. the Amora.
Both stones will hurt your eyes in sunlight :)





Indoors:


More outdoors:





First ever D color, Internally Flawless Soaring Hearts! Literally today we got the grading results which included our first ever D color, Internally Flawless Soaring Hearts! This one sold within minutes of posting but very happy to see our first D/IF in Soaring Hearts!

Laser processing for Amora rough? We are currently working with a European laser manufacturer to test cutting the Amora rough with a laser for the initial shaping. The laser has +/- 5 micron accuracy and can literally cut perfect circles out of the rough.
With Amora Gem's toughness, starting with circles for the Soaring Hearts rather than block squares would thus greatly speed up TIGER processing, since the rough would already be much closer to it's final shape.
We'll have initial test results back next week!
Here's a photo of their laser in action:


TIGER-2 and TIGER-3 moving along nicely: We have the last set of custom manufactured parts in progress now and are on track for T-2 and T-3 to be ready in early November. These will greatly help improve production volume.

New employee at our production lab: We've also hired another full-time employee who is in training now to help with production at our lab. This will further help us expand weekly production as we'll be able to increase the total running time for TIGER-1 per week.

BTD News:
New website progress:
We're continuing to improve our new site and this month enabled multi-lingual handling and mobile responsiveness. The full intl language support will allow users from around the world to be able to interact in their native language once we get it translated. We've already got part of it working in both Simplified Chinese (China) and traditional Chinese (Taiwan).
Let's plan on doing a screenshot tour of the new site in next month's update.

H&A diamond side stones for our rings! As mentioned last month, we've been working with a natural diamond melee producer and will now be able to start offering H&A cut 1.25mm - 3mm natural diamond, H&A side stones for our Amora rings! These are true H&A cut even though they are so small. Further, these are D-F color, and IF-VVS1 clarity. The H&A cut, even in these small sizes, is notably brighter than the standard single cut diamond melee. We wanted to compare and review before offering them but they definitely surpass our high end single-cut melee diamonds.
We're hoping to combine these with Soaring Hearts H&A centers to create entirely H&A cut diamond/Amora rings. We'll have more info on pricing and availability shortly on our site.

Pink Moissanite update: We were hoping to have pink Moissanite ready this month but the growth process is not perfected yet. For reference, these will be native pink, or grown pink rather than the coated pink offered elsewhere.

Anyway, no updates on ETA but we should have more info in the next weeks as growth samples are reviewed.

Misc:

Stunning Milky Way image from Queenstown, New Zealand: As always, with Amora naturally occurring around larger carbon-rich stars, I'm pleased to close this month's blog with an outstanding starry sky photo shot by South of Home photography. (South of Home Photography | Facebook)



That's it for this month! We will continue expanding production and hopefully add more photos/videos over the next month as well.
Have a great weekend, a great month, and hope to see you end of September!
Less
 
Is there any way for us to know where we "stand" in the queue? I just want to estimate how much longer it will be before it's my turn to get that e-mail notification. I never got a confirmation when I signed up, so my worst fear is that I've been waiting all this time but I was never actually added to the waiting list!
I am also wondering the same thing... as well as price so I can budget correctly - I'm kinda out of the loop, returning after a couple of years hiatus. Anyone have a GENERAL guide on prices? Is the general price listed, per carat and at what color/grade?
 

talk-admin

Administrator
Staff member
Hi all,
Happy Friday & Happy Fall! A shorter update this month but some exciting news on several topics. Thus, please grab a drink and get comfortable and let's get underway!

Amora Gem Updates:

Update to the Soaring Hearts cut - Soaring Hearts Eternity: As previously discussed, the Soaring Hearts cut was optimized using the best available cut modeling software in the world. Only GIA, BTD and now Jonathan (Good Old Gold) have the full pro version of it in the US.

However, the company who makes the software has been doing a ton of research and have improved the modeling from mono-scopic (or one eye) to include how human's see (stereoscopic) and have been using NVidia VR goggles, etc to perfect the stereoscopic modeling. They are no longer releasing software updates but in a discussion with them they are doing the stereoscopic modeling on a private, contract basis. The Stereoscopic modeling is much more computationally expensive but accurately reflects how humans will perceive it vs. simply optimizing total light ray balance which is how all modeling has always been done.

Here's an illustration to show what happens when you view a stone - each eye actually see's a slightly angled view of the stone, and then both images are merged in your brain for the final single image of what you see.




This btw also clarifies one reason people often say their camera (or monoscopic) photos and videos don't reflect how it appears in 'real life' or stereo vision. The merging of different fire/brilliance in each eye at the same point on the stone are what creates a lot of the sparkle and thus why it can be so hard, if not impossible, to replicate what you really see in person with a single eye camera.

Since we want to ensure the Soaring Hearts is the Ultimate H&A cut, we hired them to perfect the Soaring Hearts H&A using their stereoscopic modeling and after a month of non-stop computer modeling, they produced several 'ultimate' designs for max fire and max brilliance. This is not the winner below but I want to show you how the modeling work was done and why it's so computationally expensive.
Here's one model tested, and all the relevant images that have to be generated to evaluate it. There's also multiple lighting and angles to account that human eye widths differ. Now do that times all the possible pavilion angles, crown angles, star facet angles, table size, etc. and you can see you've got a ton of computations to do :)




As noted, after over a month of full time modeling to cover every combination, the result was several top winning designs. I says several designs won, because Fire can have different personalities while still scoring maximum peak in terms of total fire generated. Example - assume a 1000 units of fire generated from each model, but how is that 1000 units divided up amongst the fire flashes?

Specifically - you can have lots and lots of small fire flashes, or fewer but really large and big fire, or medium fire with medium total fire bursts, and of course measured not just in size but total hold time of each flash. All of the top designs ended up with the similar total fire generated when scored under stereoscopic video, but it's how you divide up the fire that is different.
We thus then did consumer testing and the Medium Flashes/Medium speed was the clear winner because it offers bigger fire and with more total bursts of fire and brilliance.
Next up was laser testing of the cut prototypes to verify how perfectly TIGER was cutting to the final design. Of interest, we learned that OGI lasers are not nearly as accurate as we would have hoped, and thus had to move to SarinHD lasers to perfect the calibration.
After that, more customer testing comparing the original Soaring Hearts to the update and with the new Soaring Hearts Eternity (or Stereo Optimized) winning that comparison, production has already moved over to the new stereoscopic ultimate design.
Thus, all Soaring Hearts, certed from 10,000,121 and higher, are the new (and stereo optimized) Soaring Hearts cut!

With all that background, let's take a look now at the Soaring Hearts Eternity (or stereo optimized) H&A in a studio photo:




and more importantly, video - but note, the video is of course mono-scopic. However, I think you can still see the bold flashes with lots of them:



Jonathan from Good Old Gold has kindly offered to do a video comparing the updated Soaring Hearts against H&A Diamond in a variety of lighting, so we'll hopefully have that available to show you within another week. Regardless, as noted, all production from 1,000,121 forward is the new stereo-optimized Soaring Hearts. The images and H&A patterns have also been updated for the new cut on the certs.
There is no future R&D planned at this point as we are confident we have developed the ultimate H&A cut for the Amora, and the focus now is to expand production.


GIA Research will measure Amora's Dispersion (Fire) Index: I'm extremely pleased to announce that GIA Research will be measuring the Dispersion, or Fire, Index of the Amora Gem! This value is the measure of how much white light passing through the crystal is split into it's spectral colors and thus producing the desired 'colored flashes' or fire in a gem.

This has never been measured even though we are confident it is higher than Moissanite due to the crystal structure differences.
Even after three years of production, it's never been measured due to the fact that the refractive index of Amora is so high that basically no one has the equipment to test it. Note that the Fire or Dispersion index is measured by taking the Refractive index at the highest and lowest wavelengths that your eyes can see and subtracting the difference.

Anyway GIA research does have the equipment for this, so we will be sending three Amora Gems's to them in October to have this measured for the first time.
We'll hope to have results available by our next blog update, and will post the results as soon as we have them.


Laser processing by default now: As previously mentioned, we were testing out the use of the world's best laser system to process the Amora Gem rough. The first trials went well and we have moved now to processing all our rough via laser by default. The laser processing helps to speed up the total time on TIGER due to already being shaped into cylinders, and we expect to see the production increase starting in October and beyond.


TIGER-2 and TIGER-3: We have completed nearly all of the parts for TIGER-2 and TIGER-3, save for the arms for each. These are currently in machining and should be finished by the middle of October. Our goal right now is to get TIGER-2 into production by the Holidays and TIGER-3 in January of 2017.


BTD News:

Pink Moissanite - no success for now: The R&D for pink moissanite has gone over budget without success so at this point it has been put on hold. Hopefully it will be revisited next year but in the interim, cash flow has to come first so there won't be any further R&D at this point.

New Site progress: We're continuing to add in all the remaining features needed on our new site. Given the risk of various short term trauma once we switch, it's looking like we may not go live with the new site until next year as disruptions during the Holidays would be terrible.
Regardless, I wanted to at least show some initial screenshots of the new site today and more in next months blog.
For starters, here is the new Amora Gem Inventory page and by extension, the new site menu and header:


And I'll highlight one new feature for now - you can select multiple Amora's of interest and then hit compare to go to a screen that shows just the Amora's of interest. This way you can easily compare multiple Amora's of interest directly:


The middle menu where it says "Total Amora Gems 33" is a drop down that exposes the filter settings for filtering by shape, size, etc.


Misc News:

Milky Way timelapse: With Amora Gem naturally occurring around stars, we've got our usual star feature to finish the blog. This month, it's a stunning timelapse of the Milky Way in the night sky. This timelapse was made in part due to the fact that it's estimated that 80% of the worlds population hasn't actually seen the milky way in the night sky. This is due to the amount of light pollution in most urban settings. In fact, during the 94 LA Earthquakes, 911 was bombarded with calls about a strange silvery cloud in the night sky...the reason is that with the power outages from the earthquake, people were seeing the true night sky for the first time including the Milky Way. :)
Enjoy!

That's it for this month's update! Next month we hope to have a substantial increase in total production and further updates on TIGER-2 coming online, along with more photos and videos of the Soaring Hearts.
Have a great weekend and month and see you end of October!
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talk-admin

Administrator
Staff member
Thanks for the awesome update! So is soaring hearts eternity different from the soaring hearts released this few months?
Hi MissPotato,
Correct. The original Soaring Hearts was modeled using monoscopic software. The Soaring Hearts update (or Soaring Hearts Eternity to reference it) was done under stereoscopic modeling and is thus a different H&A cut.

Thus, all certs #1,000,121 and higher are the new Soaring Hearts Eternity cut, and that will be the standard Soaring Hearts going forward for all future production.

Hope that helps,
Less
 
I am so disappointed( again) that there is no mention of the Krupps cut and when it will debut, if ever. I joined this discussion board almost 7 years ago and have been waiting for an Amora
Krupps cut ever since. I am feeling that it just isn't going to happen and have started to research moissanite step cut stones. I am one of the older members and don't have years and years to wait, darn it!

I love my Amora Ultra RB , and my moissanite OEC but a Krupps cut is my heart's desire.
If anyone has a moissanite step-cut ( Krupps, Emerald cut or Asscher)) and would be willing to message me regarding the pros/cons of owning one ( I'm concerned about how colorless a moissanite step-cut actually looks IRL ) I would really appreciate your input.
Thanks,
jeanie
 

jcent

BTD Crown Jewel
I am so disappointed( again) that there is no mention of the Krupps cut and when it will debut, if ever. I joined this discussion board almost 7 years ago and have been waiting for an Amora
Krupps cut ever since. I am feeling that it just isn't going to happen and have started to research moissanite step cut stones. I am one of the older members and don't have years and years to wait, darn it!

I love my Amora Ultra RB , and my moissanite OEC but a Krupps cut is my heart's desire.
If anyone has a moissanite step-cut ( Krupps, Emerald cut or Asscher)) and would be willing to message me regarding the pros/cons of owning one ( I'm concerned about how colorless a moissanite step-cut actually looks IRL ) I would really appreciate your input.
Thanks,
jeanie
The FI are colourless. :) Your PM isn't turned on but feel free to message me.
 
So I'm kinda disappointed... after waiting forever for the NEW soaring heart tigers to be released a month into successful production there is an even better more optimized official new standard of soaring hearts eternity. My amora # 1,000,084 that I though was the best it could possibly be is already an out dated version.
 
@Aberstar17 yup, I totally agree (along with many other people). We posted about it here, but somehow our responses were all moved to the FAQ thread. But you definitely aren't alone in being disappointed/irritated. If I were you I would be asking (more like demanding) to have the SH exchanged for this new version.. especially since we were all told that the SH was the best, most diamond like, etc etc.
 
its not very fair to consumer as we were told to its the best when its get an update in several months. Quicker than technology. Phone update are generally 1 year.

I dont agree with the way BTD make their new product release decision but I dont think having a new stone that BTD claim that is better does not necessarily mean that the old version is not good enough. Each person will like different things. From video I still like the light performance from an Ultra more than the SH even though the SH is more diamond like.
 
its not very fair to consumer as we were told to its the best when its get an update in several months. Quicker than technology. Phone update are generally 1 year.

I dont agree with the way BTD make their new product release decision but I dont think having a new stone that BTD claim that is better does not necessarily mean that the old version is not good enough. Each person will like different things. From video I still like the light performance from an Ultra more than the SH even though the SH is more diamond like.
Personally, I respect that they do not sit on their designs when they know something else is better (and I hate that about phone/electronic companies). Yes it does kinda suck that something new came out within a span of 3 months, but they are exchanging them for new gems for those who want it.

In addition, phone update plans have changed due to demand so that now people can update any time they want to for $. You used to be locked into a year or two just due to contracts. Furthermore, if you're one of those who has to buy a phone 2 months before a new phone comes out, you'd end up in the same situation and I'm sure the phone companies would not offer to exchange your phone to the latest model. Return policies on phones are 30 days too.
 

Wink

The Imperial Diamond
Rebecca,

If you are displeased with your gem, just contact Less at BTD, or whoever you bought it from. I have already had a few Amora Gem Soaring Hearts returned and Less has always asked me to sent them to him for replacement as the new Amora Gem Soaring Hearts come available. The man is on a mission to make an incredible gem better, he is not going to say not to anyone who politely asks for an exchange of their recently purchased Soaring Heart.

Personally, I think the man is a genius. Nothing is hidden from his clientele as he continues to move forward with this beautiful gem.
 
Oh that is nice. I didnt know that BTD allow exchange. Just saw alot of complaints the other day and all got removed.

Phone company annouce their release date in advance so it is consumer's choice to buy or wait. If you need it prior then its bad luck for you. But its not the same if wasnt told.


Personally, I respect that they do not sit on their designs when they know something else is better (and I hate that about phone/electronic companies). Yes it does kinda suck that something new came out within a span of 3 months, but they are exchanging them for new gems for those who want it.

In addition, phone update plans have changed due to demand so that now people can update any time they want to for $. You used to be locked into a year or two just due to contracts. Furthermore, if you're one of those who has to buy a phone 2 months before a new phone comes out, you'd end up in the same situation and I'm sure the phone companies would not offer to exchange your phone to the latest model. Return policies on phones are 30 days too.
 
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